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What is the difference between wax, clay, and pomade?

Let’s talk about the difference between pomade, clay, and wax on your hair. You’ve probably heard talk of these products thrown around, and it can get confusing. I get it: There are about a million different grooming products, and it’s tough to tell the difference between them. 

The three styling products are different.

Sure, pomade, clay, and wax may sound interchangeable. But while there is some overlap, they each serve their own purpose. 

The fact is, most guys choose a product based on what their friends use. Today I want to break down some walls, explain which one (or two, or three) is right for you depending on your hair type and the style you’re after. 

Pomade is a classic formula that clients use every day. 

Pomade is sort of the original styling product. It has a flexible hold, meaning it keeps your hair in place but allows for restyling and doesn’t get crunchy. It’s best for keeping hair down in a slick-backed or neatly combed style.

There are two types of pomade: oil-based and water-based. 

When I talk about “original,” it’s safe to say that oil-based pomade is the OG product and water-based is the up-and-comer. The issue is that it’s hard to wash out, sometimes very hard. Water-based pomades tend to be easier in that regard. 

Oil-based pomade is also more pliable, meaning you can reshape your hair during the day. Once water-based pomade dries, your cut will stay in that position for the whole day.

Hair clay offers maximum hold with a matte finish.

The main ingredient here is a natural type of clay called bentonite that expands your hair. With clay, you get a long-lasting hold with a lot of volume.

Here are some additional benefits to using hair clay.

Clay also gives your hair a matte finish. What I mean by that is that it doesn’t reflect light, so your hair looks more dry and natural instead of the slick, shiny look you get from pomade (and wax to a lesser extent). 

Hair wax gives you a medium hold and natural shine.

Think of wax as a sort of midpoint between pomade and clay. It offers a stronger hold than pomade, but tends to lose moisture faster. It usually dries out after a few hours, so you’ll need to reapply during the day for a consistent look. 

Wax has a natural shine, so your hair will reflect light but not look wet or greasy as it would with pomade. 

Product name isn’t everything.

We’re not talking about the FDA here in terms of how strictly regulated these product names are. To some extent, it comes down to how companies want to market themselves. Some “hair clays” are really more of a wax, and vice versa. 

To really understand what a hair product will do, you’ll need to check out the ingredient list. (If you see beeswax as a top ingredient, you’re dealing with hair wax, etc.) If that all sounds like too much work, ask your barber for help.  

Some grooming supplies combine functions.

Not only do product names not always relate to what’s inside, but there’s also a lot of mashups: There are clay pomades, clay waxes, cream pomades, and more. For best results, you have to look at things on a product-by-product basis.

You don’t have to choose just one.

Blending different products is a trick many barbers use to create a custom formula. We call it “cocktailing.” 

Let’s say you want the volume and structure of matte clay, but you don’t want your hair to have a matte look. If you add a little bit of wax, you can lock in a polished finish on top of a strong hold. You can find other combinations by playing around with different mixes. 

Here are a few to get you started.

Suavecito Pomade

For pomade, try Suavecito Original Hold. It gives you a ton of hold with a high-sheen finish. 

RedOne Aqua Hair Wax.

My favorite wax right now is RedOne Aqua Hair Wax, which offers a strong hold that’s good for structured looks. It gives you a nice shine without making your hair too heavy or greasy. 

CNNY Men’s Hair Styling Clay

For clay, I’ve got two suggestions, based on your hair type: 

CNNY Men’s Hair Styling Clay is best for thin hair. It’s a firm-hold styling product that adds volume and texture with a natural matte finish. This stuff will make your hair hold without looking crunchy.

Visit The Classic for more recommendations from pro barbers in Fort Worth

For the best recommendations, you’ll want to consult a barber who knows your hair’s texture and the style you’re after. 

Book an appointment online or stop by one of our shops for personalized suggestions.

Meet the Author

George Burrola, aka “George The Classic Barber,” is widely considered to be among the finest barbers in Fort Worth, earning a reputation over his 20-year career as a master of fades, straight razor shaves, and innovative skin care techniques.

George holds a barber’s license from the state of Texas and continues to deliver exceptional cuts and good company for generations of Fort Worth men and their sons.

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