A great fade doesn’t happen by accident. This classic cut — long on top and short on the sides and back, fading to a tight finish — takes real skill and the right tools from top fade barbers.
At The Classic Barber, we use four pieces of haircutting equipment to give our patrons a seamless fade:
- Clippers for foundation work
- Combs to guide
- Shears to refine
- Razors for the finishing touch
Today, I’m going to walk you through how we get the most out of each of them.
We start with clippers.
It’s the first tool we’ll pick up when beginning a fade, used to remove the bulk of the hair and give the cut its basic shape.
Choose the right clipper guard length.
Clipper guards control the length of the haircut, going from a #0 (1/16 inch) all the way to a #8 (1 inch).
For most fades, we stick with the lower numbers, switching between guard sizes to make clean transitions.
We make a fade line.
Once we’ve established the length of the fade, barbers make a fade line to use as a guide for blending the different lengths.
We switch to a shorter guard (#0 or #1) and cut a line around the head where we want the fade to start.
Then cut the base.
With a short guard, we cut the base, around the sides and back of the head. This is usually the shortest part of the fade, so it gives us a starting point to build the blend upward.
And fade upwards.
We repeat the same shaving technique as before, starting at the bottom and moving up.
But we don’t go all the way to the top. To get an even fade, we pick the spot where the next fade line will be. This varies from person to person, but the second fade line is usually above the ear.
Once we’ve established that second line, we go back between the two lengths using an in-between guard to blend out the line.
Combs are used for a nice, blended taper.
During a taper fade, for example, the comb helps us lift and guide the hair while we cut. Techniques like clipper-over-comb or shear-over-comb help shape the blend between shorter and longer areas.
Top fade barbers have a few different combs at their disposal. We use a taper comb for detailing around the hairline, and a wider comb to lift thick or curly hair, even it out, and blend it.
Shears refine.
Once the fade is roughed in, we bring out the shears, which give us more control for shaping the longer hair on top and near the crown.
Also, sometimes clippers leave “steps” where the transition between lengths is too abrupt. Shears help us soften those harsh lines for a smooth fade.
Razors finish the job.
The last step is cleaning up the edges. That’s where the straight razor comes in. Once the fade is in place, we go in with the razor to sharpen the hairline, neckline, and sideburns.
Razor lining makes a difference.
Razor work gives us crisp outlines around the ears and temples. For bald fades, we also use the razor to take the lower part down to skin level for an ultra-clean look.
We finish up with the neck.
First, we apply shaving cream to the area we’re about to cut, then we turn the razor upside down and shave downwards towards the shoulder blades, following the hairline.
We apply light strokes, making sure to rinse the razor on occasion to prevent buildup. Then we wrap it all up by cleaning up your neck with a damp towel.
Stop by The Classic Barber in Fort Worth.
We’ll show you what the right tools and a skilled, top fade barber can do.
Book an appointment online, or visit one of our shops.
